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Both polysorbate 20 and polysorbate 80 are nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers used in personal care formulations. They help to blend oil and water phases to ensure even distribution of ingredients in product formulations.
They differ in their fatty acid component – polysorbate 20, with lauric acid, is better suited to lighter, water-based formulations. Polysorbate 80, with its oleic acid component, is appropriate for heavier oils and richer emulsions.
Polysorbate 20 is produced by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate, which is derived from lauric acid (a saturated fatty acid typically from coconut oil). Its CAS Number is 9005-64-5.
Polysorbate 80 is made by ethoxylating sorbitan monooleate, which is derived from oleic acid (an unsaturated fatty acid typically from olive or soybean oil). Its CAS Number is 9005-65-6.
The numbers themselves (20, 80) help distinguish between different polysorbates based on the fatty acid used:
Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction where ethylene oxide, a gas, is added to compounds with hydroxyl groups – in this case, the sorbitan monolaurate or sorbitan monooleate.
This reaction takes place under heat and pressure in the presence of a catalyst (like potassium hydroxide). The process is carried out in a specialised stainless steel or other corrosion-resistant reactor.
The ethylene oxide molecules open their ring structure and attach to the hydroxyl sites, forming chains of hydrophilic (water-attracting) ethoxy units.
This modification increases the compound’s water solubility and creates effective nonionic surfactants – like polysorbate 20 and 80 – which help blend oil and water in formulations.
The fatty acids that the sorbitan is derived from affect solubility, emulsifying properties and compatibility with different oils, giving them different applications.
The fatty acid’s length and saturation affect the balance between hydrophilic and lipophilic behaviour.
Lauric acid used to create polysorbate 20 is shorter, more compact and more chemically stable. It is saturated, meaning it lacks double bonds. This short, saturated structure favours lighter, water-friendly formulations.
Oleic acid used to create polysorbate 80 has a longer, kinked chain due to its double bond (meaning it is unsaturated). This longer, unsaturated structure enhances interaction with oily phases, improving emulsification of richer oils.
Polysorbate 20, thanks to its compact structure, is mainly used to help blend small amounts of essential oils, fragrances, or other active ingredients into water-based products like facial mists, toners and sprays.
Polysorbate 80 is better suited for mixing and stabilising heavier oils in products like creams, lotions, shampoos, and some medications, where it helps keep oil and water evenly combined.
Both work well with most other common ingredients used in formulations, including those with positive, negative, or neutral charges (that is, anionic, nonionic and cationic systems).
Our Life Science division supplies innovation solutions for cosmetics, personal care, hygiene and detergency products – including polysorbate 20 and polysorbate 80.
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